Celebrity chef Michael White, who’s earned obsequious accolades, awards, stars, etc., etc. for New York restaurant Marea, partnered up with F&B conglomerate Dining Concepts to open this casual Italian joint back in May. On a recent weekend a group of us decided to get a bunch of pizzas—okay, and one salad—and wash ‘em down with a couple rounds of Stellas and Leffes. The pizzas, cooked in a special walk-in oven much touted by the restaurant PRs, were excellent, from the eggplant one, the parma ham and rocket one, down to the mushroom one and the simple margherita. Though they were thin-crust, there was none of that soggy middle portion that seems to plague other pizzerias in the city. Now for the downside: these babies were expensive. (They came to about $140 a piece—and they’re definitely not Paisano’s-sized). And while they must be paying through the nose for their location—Al Molo is right next to BLT Steak along cruise ship pier in front of Harbour City (and in fact, Al Molo means “on the pier” in Italian)—it’s still a little rich for our blood. It’s too bad, because the vibe was great, the décor was homey and the buffet brunch that we eyed as we chomped on our slices looked top-notch. The array of pastas and meat and seafood mains is mouth-watering, but the prices are pretty hefty for those dishes, too. It’s four-star food, that’s for sure, but the dent in our wallets is bringing the final verdict down a notch.