French American Bistro, G/F, 30 Hollywood Rd., Central, Hong Kong, Hong Kong S.A.R., China
Opening Hours:daily 10-2am
Cuisine:American, French, Western
We weren’t too sure about how these two very different culinary cultures were going to work together, but overall, French American Bistro toes the line pretty well. Simple, casual dishes of carbs (mac n’ cheese, gnocchi, risotto), meats (steak, truffle burger, chicken n’ mash) and starters made to share (cold cuts, sliders, crab cakes) spell out comfort food from top to bottom, taking American classics and adding a Gallic twist to keep them from slipping into Ruby Tuesday territory. Pleasantly hopping on a weekday evening with people-watchers sharing bits and pieces from the menu over a few beers, F.A.B. is relaxed and unpretentious, though the food itself is a little patchy. After a strong start of salmon and seabass tartare, which came infused with a hint of ginger, we were excited to try the homey chicken breast with mashed potato and morel mushroom gravy. But while the chicken was cooked well, we felt that it lacked oomph. We very rarely salt our food, but we had to ask for a shaker after a couple of bites. The potato was more of the same—with an oddly sticky feel, it lacked a good mash’s indulgent richness. The salmon—served with ratatouille and roasted potatoes—fared better, but it wasn’t mind-blowing stuff. F.A.B. is a decent addition to the neighborhood, but it’ll have to up its game to keep fussier customers coming back.