Jimmy’s Kitchen, that stalwart of colonialist cooking, has changed. Relocating its Kowloon branch, the 80-year old restaurant hasn’t moved far, just a couple doors down, but it just isn’t the same. The colonialist air that once made it such a popular escape for transitory expats is gone. The food remains the same, though perhaps a little paler in comparison to the Jimmy’s of our memories. We started with a selection of their famed appetizers—the escargot was reliably appetizing, as was the crabmeat with avocado. Only the pâté maison disappointed, the gargantuan slab hardly compensating for the lack of quality. The mains were next, but the extended wait and lack of attentive service had us remembering times gone by, when Jimmy’s was renowned for its über-courteous wait staff. Though a long time coming, two of the three mains were at least both cooked to near-perfection. However, Jimmy’s classic stroganoff was sadly left untouched, both the noodles and meat chunks chewy and undercooked. The night was saved, however, with the flaming baked Alaska—too sweet and sugary, yes, but its nostalgic value is worth the dish alone. And isn’t that what Jimmy’s is all about?