Don’t get us wrong: grilled stuff on sticks is one of our favorite types of cuisine, but it had better be pretty damn special for us to pay 300 bucks a head for it. And Magushi—the new yakitori restaurant hidden right at the top of Peel Street—just doesn’t quite cut it. The space, like many casual Japanese restaurants, is small, with office ladies and friends-of-the-owner lining one wall, while another is dedicated to the yakitori grill and an impressive sake collection. As for the food, the quality varied tremendously. The black cod and Angus beef were pretty good, but the grapefruit salad was just some clumps of fruit with a bit of onion on top. The foie gras was a generous portion, but it somehow lacked that richness that would have made it great. Magushi, with its pleasant outdoor terrace, would have been better off as a sake bar that does good yakitori snacks, rather than an average dining destination with a big sake collection. Just what we needed in SoHo, yet another uninspiring restaurant.