Having built up a huge loyal following at their old (now demolished) Bridges Street premises, the Ngau Kee has moved down the hill to up-and-coming Gough Street. There is no outside seating, but the warm family vibe, Canto-chaos decor and great local cooking survive intact. This is where locals come for dinner and you will find everyone from SoHo film directors to the guy who runs the newspaper stand on the corner spitting bones on the floor. The food, like the interior, is classic Hong Kong diner: cheap, slap-dash cooking with a touch of magic. The principle specialties are Cantonese favorites such as steamed fish, pepper squid and clams in black-bean sauce. But there are also the bizarre, off-piste, old-favorites (such as pork chops fried with mayonnaise) that made the old Ngau Kee such a fun and unique place to eat. The best way to enjoy this place is with a bunch of noisy friends and plenty of beers. Try and grab a table downstairs as the upstairs tends to get brain-splittingly loud (something to do with the low ceiling).  For a cheap, colorful and incredibly friendly Cantonese experience, it is hard to do better in SoHo. We would have given it five stars, but we miss the outside tables and twinkling fairy lights that made the old place so special.