To paraphrase Ron Burgundy, Sakaegawa is kind of a big deal, especially in this bargain-addicted town. Sakaegawa was the fine-dining Japanese restaurant at the Ritz, and almost a year after the hotel closed down, the restaurant has finally reopened in Causeway Bay. Same restaurant for a fraction of the price—how could anyone resist? Decked out like a Japanese fish market, the atmosphere is decidedly bustling, with Japanese signs and maps lining the walls and crowds of satisfied diners mixing in and out. And the fish is just as fresh as back in the heyday: not-to-miss items include the Canadian uni, which was half the price of the Japanese one and twice as good; and the black cod, possibly the only kind in town not brushed with miso paste, allowing the natural flavor of the fish to shine through. That said, what made the old Sakegawa truly five-star was that its food was superlative and the service flawless. In this reincarnation, the service was spotty and except for one or two standouts, the dishes were average, with some verging on oily (wagyu with enoki) or even bland (teppanyaki fried rice). But on the upside, at least you won’t have to choose between a meal at Sakaegawa or paying your month’s rent anymore.