The blinding tube lights and a smattering of couples downing discount donburi is not the best greeting, but close your senses to the ambiance and focus on what’s in your mouth. Because the food is blinding. With or without rice, the fish is astounding—straight-out-of-the-drink, with a texture as smooth and silky as a salmon’s behind. But don’t limit yourself to mercury deposits. Finely grilled seafood and above-average tempura help those with a fear of the uncooked, while fried potato cakes and bargain noodles ensure variety.