There used to be just one of these places, now there are four, all within walking distance of each other. We were shown a live but not so kicking crab, and friendly and easy haggling ensued over the price. You pick the level of spice and we requested “mild” so the mountain of fried chili, garlic and scallions did not overpower the crab’s briny, mineral freshness that burst in your mouth. A sweet yau mak choi and garlic stir-fry kept its crunch, and “small” steamed scallops turned out to be humongous, the roe perfectly juicy.