This enormous restaurant with hanging chili peppers as a design element features the rural cuisine of China’s great northwest. A flask of earthy buckwheat tea and bowls of boiled peanuts, roasted sunflower seeds and quail eggs sit on every table. The specialty here is youmian, a noodle made out of baked oats, cute little spindles of dough squeezed and twisted by an assembly line of women. The shape and feel of the pasta will be exotic for southerners, but totally nostalgic for workers from that region. Mutton ribs come with pickled garlic, chili sauce and cumin salt for you to brush on. Also worth trying is the fusion-y culinary oddity—a plate of shanyao (Chinese yam) medallions drizzled with a blueberry sauce—is it an appetizer or a dessert?